The world of the Begums

The world of the Begums

Discovering the world is what Homo Sapiens are all about. Not so strangely enough, I share this passion with my ancestors. Although, I have to tell you from the out set, I am an enthusiast in adventure but don't really do much about it.

You don't really see me scaling up the mountains or even splashing into a waterfall borne on a raft. But when it comes to something that has culture or history written all over it, I am in my elements. The crowded lanes of India provides me with enough fodder to enable me to write this personal essay.

This essay is about my surprise find. At least, I was surprised to find it. The element of surprise persists because it is always based on the unexpected. The tale which unfolds now takes this element into account. Suddenly, in the middle of a very prosaic, muggy afternoon in a crowded corner of one of India's most populated cities, I found a gem of history.

To truly appreciate this find maybe I should elaborate on Bhopal. The capital city of the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh. The name, which is in Sanskrit explains it all. Madhya, meaning middle or in the middle of. Pradesh meaning region. So, this city, Bhopal is in the middle of the country. The government's tourism department describes it as the heart of India.

Its not easy to be that. The heart of India. It means being a tropical region with all the negatives thrown in. It's pretty hot throughout the year, it rains intermittently and at times gets a monsoon flooding. Once upon a time this city had been the haunt of the cavalier Raja Bhoj. The legend, whose kingdom sank into the biggest lake, rather like Atlantis, another mythic city.

The beautiful fact of this city is that its called the Lake City. Its surrounded by 33 lakes, some of it man made. Now, that’s reason enough for anyone to take a look at this gorgeous old lady, sparkling in gems of history. But my work was far more prosaic. I went to Bhopal to collect some legal paperwork for my firm.

Regrettably enough, I didn't have much time to spare in Bhopal. The work entailed running from pillar to post, literally. This brought me to the Bhopal secretariat. This was the term used by the British during the Raaj or colonial rule and the name has stuck. Most Indian cities which were part of the Raaj have a secretariat or a civil lines, as the British called them and the terms are still in use.

After I had been hustled from one cubicle to another, it was time for lunch. Its a dreaded time for most of the staff will cease to work, at least for two hours. Famished, I came out of the stuffy colonial style building into a street. That is when I spied a beautiful old ruin. Built in the style of the muslim aristocrats. This was unexpected. I rushed towards it to discover that it hid a tiny little eatery inside its confines.

Inside, it looked like Alladin's cave. There were fairy lights festooned on little ornate tables. You could sit on low slung stools also. The menu was very Nawabi or Muslim aristocratic. This genre of cuisine has its roots in the innovations, secretly done in the kitchens of the Muslim aristocrats. For, after Raja Bhoj, the remaining parts of Bhopal, which didn't sink, became the property of Muslim rulers.

As luck would have it, Bhopal, became the principality of such Begums, which means queens. Bhopal was ruled by queens, whose innovations were many. It also includes a whole army of trans genders, who were their security and whose gender or lack of it ensured the Begums' chastity.

The ruin in which I sat chewing some delicacies, belonged to one of these ruling families. This particular palace was now in ruins. However, the Begums family had restored the interiors to start this small eatery. They claimed that the cooks were trained in their family for generations. But people do suspect that some of the cooks could be actual members of the royal family.

The aroma is certainly royal. How could so much be happening without many of us not being aware of it? That's the typical aristocratic approach for you. You have to find them and even if they aren't in their prime, they are royal. Anyway, most people, living in Bhopal, do know about this eatery which remains unnamed. They defy the whole concept of a name. To make a long story short I decided to call it "Begums”.

The secretariat which now houses the ruling bureaucracy, of modern India, has ensured that the word gets around. The Babus or clerks, are also famed for being regulars at this eatery. The food is light, traditional and full of the aroma of fresh spices. The Kababs, are truly melt in the mouth, the Biriyani tasty and delicious. As you ruminate on the experience, your senses exploding in a heady mix of spices and history, you discover romance. The romance of knowing the secrets of an era, firmly dissolved in the past. Somehow, the savoury is worth a million saves, if you know what I mean.